Tuesday 10 October 2017

Roaming South Korea - one week in Seoul & Jeju Island

One week in Seoul & Jeju Island

Cherry blossoms, skin care, and loads of "kimchi"!
These are what you can expect when travelling to Daehan Minguk (means Republic of Korea, or South Korea) in spring.
Cherry blossoms are just everywhere - in the park, city, along the expressway, on the hill;  you can always find an Innisfree or any other skin care outlets around the corner; and I couldn't believe I'd fell in love with kimchi (finally, a match made in heaven?), just can't have enough of this sweet and sour seasoned local dish. Mmmm..... Oh, let's get back to our main story, about kimchi... No, no, no!! I mean about travelling to South Korea, the sequel of my 'tag along' trip with Mr. Chill, together with his friends.

Itinerary: 
Seoul 
Day 1: Arrival → Myeong-dong
Day 2:Coex Mall → Seokchon Lake → N Seoul Tower
Day 3:Gyeongbokgung → Insa-dong → Myeong-dong
Day 4:Petite France → Nami Island → Dongdaemun
Jeju Island 
Day 5: Manjanggul → Seongsan Ilchul-bong
Day 6:Mysterious Road → Osulloc Tea Museum → Shipwreck of Sperwer → Cheonjeyeon Falls → Jusangjeollidae

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Day 1, 9th Apr: Annyeong haseyo! (Breaking the ice)
Didn't do much research and survey beforehand for this trip, as I just wanna follow their itinerary (if there's ever any). After waved goodbye to Taipei, hopped on a Thai Airways' 2-hr flight to Seoul.
Arriving at Incheon Intl. Airport was a painful experience, spent hours lining up for immigration check and waiting for luggage claim, it felt like forever! Mr. Chill has been waiting for me at the airport as his flight arrived early. Took the AREX train to Myeong-dong, where our guesthouses were located. I had to stay in different guesthouse alone, as the place where they were staying was already full by the time I tried to book, but it was within walking distance between the two. My guesthouse was run by a Korean Oppa, the room was not so spacious but just nice for me to spend the next four nights. Felt a bit hot and stuffy in the room, tried to switch on the air-con but couldn't find the remote control. When asking Oppa to switch on the air-conI was told that air-con is not available during cold season, but he will lower the heater's temperature in my room if I feel hot.
"Gamsa habnida, oppa.", I said.
He was stunned,"...... Don't call me oppa, only girls call me that!"
"Oh, very sorry!!!", I apologized.
In Korea, the term oppa means "older brother" and is used by girls to address older guys when speaking to them. (Didn't I tell you that not much research was done before the trip?)

Guesthouse:Myeongdong Stay
Address:Toegye-ro 24gil, Jung-gu, Jung-Gu, Seoul, 100-043, Korea, South
Price per pax:KRW35,000/night
Reservation website:booking.com



▲The red building was the guesthouse where I stayed

Mr. Chill's friends: SK, Jenn, and V were nice and friendly ladies, I felt grateful to them for letting me to join the funwagon.
Went to have dinner at a chicken galbi restaurant across the street. Galbi is a Korean cuisine, marinated meat (typically chicken) in ganjang-based sauce (taste like sweet & spicy paste) is grilled on a hot pan upon serving, other side dishes such as noodles, rice, seafood can be ordered and grilled together with the meat.
▲All in the pan!

▲The chicken galbi restaurant located in Myeongdong

Ended the day with a few light booze of Korean plum wine back at Chill's guesthouse. Their place was more like it - a decent-looking reception desk, a Mandarin-speaking concierge (later found out he's a Taiwanese with working visa here), comfy sofa, area guide maps & brochures... my place had none of these, and my Oppa had long gone to sleep.



Day 2: Blossoms around the lake, and on the hill
Last night was freezin' cold!!! shouldn't have asked Oppa to adjust the heater's temperature in my room. Had a good sleep btw.
Remembered that I was told yesterday breakfast will be served at 8am, so went downstairs early in the morning. Couldn't see anyone though, not even Oppa... that was strange, wondering if I've missed the serving time. Noticed there was a room behind the reception desk with its door locked, knocked on it and found out Oppa was indeed inside! Still in half-asleep mode, he answered the door and apologized for being overslept. He then quickly prepared breakfast for me: plain-white breads, apple jam, butter, instant coffee, and milk, take your pick and eat all you can. Well, can't complain much.

Briefly chatted with Oppa over a cup of coffee. His family owned this premise for many years, and now he run the guesthouse business all by himself, day and night, assisted by a staff who's in-charge of housekeeping. He moaned that it's a very tiring routine. (Yeah, I can tell.)
Went over to meet up with the others and ready for our journey of the day. Where to? I didn't really had a clue at first. Jenn had an appointment with her colleague, Jeena. She described her colleague as an attractive, pretty Korean girl as seen on TV or Youtube, you know: long legs, silky skin, eyes which can electricute instantly (well, at least these were my expectations). So what are we waiting for, right? Let's go!!!
▲Seoul's subway system

Act as the Metro "guru" in our group to decipher the maze of subway routes in Seoul, as I downloaded a handy navigation app: Metro Seoul Subway, with complete subway map, and route planner which advises user the shortest & cheapest route, the advantage is the app works without internet connection.

▲Metro Seoul Subway App

▲Subway map & List of recommended routes

▲Stations along the selected route & Station search

Have used the same app to navigate my way in Taipei too! Search the keyword "metroman" on app store and you should find a list of similar apps which cover subway maps from other cities around the world.

Went for a walk at Coex Mall before meeting up with Jeena. To me, it was really just a walk, but to the others, they have quickly transformed to the "greyhound of skin-K", 'sniffing' around and 'hunt' for the best deals of Korean skincare and beauty products. You may have or have not visited Korea, but surely you have learned that Korea is the Mecca for skin beauty shopping, and of course, plastic surgery.
First leg of the "hunting party" lasted for about an hour, and then we stopped for lunch at the food court in the mall. 
The Korean tang (bone soup) and naengmyeon (cold noodles) were dishes to crave for. The broth was hearty and rich of flavour, with fresh meat, and the bone which was soft enough to be scissored into pieces so you can savour the collagen inside. And, nothing beats having an icy cold noodle in cold weather. Yes, you read it right, cold noodle is one of Koreans' favourite meal during winter! The buckwheat noodles were served in ice broth, fell in love with it from the first bite.
▲Naengmyeon

▲Rib / bone soup

After lunch, we took the subway train to Jamsil station, where we met Jeena. She's a gorgeous, cheerful and friendly girl. Jeena became our tour guide of the day and brought us to Seokchon Lake, where it's within walking distance from the subway station. The lake, originally a part of the Han River, was formed following land reclamation. It was separated into two lakes by an expressway. This lakeside park is where people come for cherry blossoms season every year, it's also worth visiting in other seasons of the year for its different scenery. Cherry blossom trees grow and form an enthralling view around the lakes.








Standing majestically beside Seokchon Lake is the Lotte World Mall & Tower, a shopping, offices, hotel and residence complex with area size equivalent to 110 soccer fields and the tower, which is the world's sixth-highest building by the time of our visit.

Did another round of shopping, and chilled out over a cup of tea around the area before saying goodbye to our beautiful tour guideIt was already late night when we returned to our guesthouse. JennChill and I decided to visit N Seoul Tower, the others were just too tired to follow us after a long day. So there we went in the dark cold night in Seoul, on our way up to Mt. Namsan where the tower is located, by foot from our guesthouse. Arrived at the cable car station only to realize that its operation hours had ended. As there was still a long distance to the top, we spent a few thousand won to take a cab instead of continue walking. The tower was already closed for entry when we got there, so we just strolled around and enjoyed the night view of Seoul.

▲Seoul Tower

▲Night view from Mt. Namsan 

The best way to wrap up a tiring & chilly night but otherwise a fun & fulfilling day is... we missed the last bus back to Myeong-dong! And there weren't any taxis in sight!! The only way is the walkway. Being "under-dressed" and walking for miles outdoor with single-digit degree weather at night was an unforgettable experience, but the white cherry blossoms by the roadside spiralling down Mt Namsan kept us in good company and took our focus off the freezing weather... for a little while.


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Day 3: Korea's history & culture walking tour
Gyeongbokgung was the royal palace built in Seoul during the reign of Joseon dynasty in 14th century. This magnificent grand palace was then expanded, destroyed and rebuilt over the next centuries. The palace consists of several halls and gates, we came out from the subway station exit that lead us to Yeongchumun (The West Gate). Entrance fee to Heungnyemun (The Second Inner Gate) and inner halls is 3000 won. Many visitors also come to witness the guards changing ceremony, which is held every hour from 10am at Gwanghwamun (The Main and South Gate).

▲Heungnyemun (2nd Inner Gate)

▲Gwanghwamun (The Main Gate)



▲Guard changing ceremony

After witnessing the ceremony, we walked to a famous restaurant that serves Samgyetang (more on this later) nearby. As usual, the ladies didn't miss the chance to check out the skincare outlets along the way.
The restaurant where we had lunch is usually full, but we got there early before the lunchtime queue starts building up. Samgyetang means ginseng (sam) chicken (gye) soup (tang), it consists of a whole young chicken, filled with garlic, rice and spices, all stuffed in a hot bowl of soup. Incredibly delicious and fulfilling meal, a must try when you visit Korea.

▲Samgyetang restaurant


▲The queue starts building up during lunchtime

Took the subway to Anguk station after lunch, where it's the nearest station to Insa-dong. Here you can wander around the spiderweb of alleys with plenty of art galleries, craft shops, and traditional restaurants and cafes. Because of it's traditional Korean culture ambiance, Insa-dong is the shooting scenes for many TV drama series.


▲Stroll on the main road of Insa-dong, with branching alleys along the way




▲Restaurants in one of many alleys in Insa-dong

Maybe a place with less shopping options doesn't appeal so much to the ladies. We didn't stay here for long, made our way back to Myeong-dong and spent the evening at the shopping streets.
▲Street view of Myeong-dong shopping district


▲As usual, another warm & delicious meal in the chilly night in Seoul

▲Restaurant where we had dinner in Myeong-dong

▲Meat, MORE MEAT!!!



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Day 4: It's a "dramatic" fairy tale experience
Mr. Chill had an appointment with his clients, so only the ladies and I embarked on a journey to embrace the worlds of fairy tales and indulge our inner child - Petite France & Nami Island, where both are famed for being the shooting scenes of some well-known Korean TV dramas.
We bought the Nami Island passes (KRW23,000/pax all-in fare, which includes round trip shuttle service from the city to the ferry terminal, round trip ferry to the island, and the island entry visa) from their immigration office in the city the day before. Feel free to visit their official homepage https://namisum.com/en for more info about transportation & schedules.
▲Shuttle bus from Seoul city center to Nami Island

Upon arrival at the ferry terminal, we decided to first take a detour to Petite France, which is just 15 minutes taxi ride away. This is a French cultural village theme park, entrance fee's KRW8,000/adult. Being here felt like you're at some European countryside by the hill, along the river. The theme park is built with beautiful houses, exhibition halls & galleries, surrounded by the scenery of nature as backdrop.









Nami Island, or Naminara Republic is a region located 74km northeast of Seoul, with its distinctive cultural & diplomatic policies independent from the country (thus visitors require visa for entry). Renowned for the scenes in popular Korean drama - Winter Sonata, with picturesque tree lanes, gardens, ponds & wildlife, this is certainly a holiday Mecca for all ages. The best way to enjoy this attractive island is by foot, or rent a bicycle.

▲Queue for ferry to Nami Island




▲Stroll along the tree lane on the island










It's spring, the season of flowers, so the best way to spend the evening is to see more flowers. At Dongdaemun History & Culture Parkthat's where more than 25,000 LED-lit artificial roses were on display. Also located in the park is the Design Plaza (DDP), a modern age architectural masterpiece. The rose garden blend perfectly with the DDP, forming a beautiful night view that I've never seen before.

▲Dongdaemun Design Plaza



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Day 5: To the volcanoes...

We took a taxi to Gimpo Airport early morning to catch the domestic flight to Jeju-do, an island off the Korea's southern coast, famous with its many UNESCO World Heritage Sites and volcanic landscapes.

 Airline: Eastar Jet
 Departure port: Gimpo (GMP)
 Arrival port: Jeju (CJU)
 Flight duration: 1 hour
 Return airfare per pax: KRW103,800
 Website: www.eastarjet.com

 Accommodation: Hotel Robero Jeju
 Address: Gwandeok-ro, Jeju City, Jeju, 690-809, Korea, South
 Price of double room: KRW75,250/night
 Reservation website: booking.com

At the Jeju Airport, our driver cum tour guide cum itinerary planner Mr. Boo (well arranged in advance by Jenn) had been expecting us. After lunch and checking-in to our hotel (finally, we're staying together!), our first stop was Manjanggul Cave,  the lava tunnel system which was formed due to continuous lava activities in the underground, causing formation of unique structures, stone pillars & stalagmites. Only a section (about 1km of the total 13km long tube system) is opened to public, with KRW2,000/pax entry fee (adult), visitors can take a walk in the cold, wet, dark but adequately illuminated underground cave and appreciate the magnificent "works" of mother nature.

 Manjanggul Cave 
 Address: 182 Manjanggul-gil, Gujwa-eup, Cheju, Jeju-do



▲stairway to the cave entrance







Our next destination of the day was also related to volcano. Located at the eastern end of Jeju, Seongsan Ilchul-bong (translate as Sunrise Peak) was formed from the seabed due to volcanic eruption over thousands of years. The peak is 180 meters high and it's a popular spot to see sunrise (that's where the name "Sunrise Peak" came from). Besides that, hiking up to the peak was a great experience, looking down the amazing view of villages, cliffs, sea & coastline from the top.

▲Sunrise timing recorded for each day of the year










Mr. Boo took us to a seaside later on, where we relaxed & enjoyed the sea breeze after a day of walking & hiking. We had a great Korean-style BBQ dinner that night, but I didn't remember the location & name of the restaurant.







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Day 6: Jeju's "mystery", tea leaves, and greatness of nature
10 minutes drive to the south from our hotel brought us to the most puzzling "mystery" in Jeju, or probably in Korea - The Mysterious Road got its name because objects (and vehicles) on the road surface move or roll uphill instead of downward the slope, defying the natural law of gravity. But this is actually just an optical illusion, where the downhill appears to be uphill slope due to the seemingly high surroundings.

 Mysterious Road 
 Address: 2894-63 1100(Cheonbaek)-ro, Nohyeong-dong, Cheju, Jeju-do



Our next stop - Osulloc Tea Museum was the first museum built in Korea to introduce the country's tea history & culture to the public. The complex also comprised of a shop that offers wide range of products besides tea leaves, such as the multi-purpose green tea powder (right); a tea house that serves green tea-flavour beverages & desserts; and a large outdoor tea farm. Located right next door of the museum is Innisfree Jeju House, the beauty product brand's flagship store, a place that kept our ladies occupied.


 Osulloc Tea Museum 
 Address: 1235-3 Seogwang-ri, Andeok-myeon, Seogwipo, Jeju-do



▲Green tea desserts


▲Osulloc tea farm


Located at Yongmeori coast in southwest of the island is a very unique museum - Shipwreck of Sperwer. It's a replica of the Dutch ship by the same name which was manned by Hendrick Hamel & his crew of East Indies Company in 17th century. During Hamel's time in Korea after their ship was wrecked on Jeju's coast, he reported about his experience in Korea to the company's board of director, thus created the first detailed account of Korea in the Western world. The museum was built to commemorate this historic moment between Korea & Dutch.




I found the scenery around Yongmeori coastline rather more appealing than the museum itself.





We then travelled east to the Cheonjeyeon Falls (means "God's Pool", legend has it that maids of the gods would come down from heaven & bathe here during midnight). The waterfalls consist of 3 sections, the first one was formed by cold water pouring out from a cave's ceiling. The water gathers in the pool & from there, falls 2 more times thus creating 2nd & 3rd waterfall, and eventually flows to the sea.
▲3rd waterfall seen from afar

▲water flows to the sea




▲This crystal clear pool is the water source for the waterfalls


▲the legends of God's Pool

Connecting the main entrance with the walking trail to waterfalls is Seonimgyo Bridge, an arch bridge with 7 nymphs carved on the side, surely a sight not to be missed.



 Cheonjeyeon Falls (not to be mistaken with Cheonjiyeon Waterfall, which is also in Jeju)
 Address: South Korea, Jeju-do, Seogwipo-si, Jungmun-dong, 2232
 Opening Hours: 8am - 6pm
 Admission: KRW2,500 (Adult) / KRW1,350 (Children)

The best place to hang out in Jeju is it's long coastline. Mr. Boo took us to the seaside nearby Cheonjeyeon, where we had a few drinks & some local seafood catch.



Less than 10 minutes drive to the east got us to Jusangjeollidae, the rocky cliff with columnar joints that runs 2km along the coast of Jungmun & Daepo. These polygonal columns (typically with 5 or 6 sides) were formed by the cooling & solidification of volcanic lava during eruption hundred thousands of years ago, creating a magnificent view by the sea today. It is more beautiful when viewed during sunset, and this set up the best finale for our trip in Jeju.

 Jusangjeollidae 
 Address: Jungmun - Daepo coast
 Admission: KRW2,000 (Adult) / KRW1,000 (Children)


▲Polygonal columns



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Day 7: The end is the beginning
A trip is always seems so short-lived when it comes to the end, especially the memorable one. We flew back to Gimpo, and then took the AREX train to Incheon Airport for a flight back to KL. Mr. Chill would get to enjoy Seoul for few more days, as he extended his stay for business matters.

The most important thing about travelling is not where you are going, but it's whom you are travelling with. I had a blast with my travel buddies in Seoul, thanks to Mr. Chill, who allowed me to tag along to all these beautiful places; SK, who did a great job finding the way to get the Nami Island passes done, on the totally non English-speaking streets; Jenn, who arranged a very good driver in Jeju so we're well taken care of; and V, for having the same surname with me (hahaha...). We had some good laughs, great times along the way, which inspired me to start this blog.


"If we have never met, this journey would not have started."

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