Tuesday 10 October 2017

Roaming Taiwan - 5 days in the capital & north coast

5 Days in Taipei

"You were amazed, weren't you?"
Indeed, you could not fail to be amazed by the warmth, friendliness, and politeness shown by the people of Taiwan. Blend with the country's diverse culture and breathtaking nature, this is definitely one of the top destinations in any traveler's list.

▲Touched down at Taoyuan Intl. Airport

The opportunity came when I tagged along my friend while he was on a business trip to Taipei in early April, basically he was working most of the time while I had all the fun! To keep my friend anonymous, in case his boss happen to see this blog, let's name him Mr. Chill from now on.
This also marked the first time I plan my own itinerary for an oversea trip (not that I really enjoyed the process, given my habit of laziness). I prefer to obtain info from other's travel blogs, besides popular sites such as Lonely Planet or TripAvisor. One website I find very useful is GuideToTaipei.com, which provides travel info of places around Taiwan: attractions, modes of transport, tips... you name it, they have it.

  Itinerary
 Day 1: Taoyuan Airport → Chiang Kai-shek Memorial  Hall → Ding Tai Fung → Taipei 101
 Day 2: Yangmingshan → Shilin Night Market
 Day 3:  Jiufen → Jinguashi  Gold Museum
 Day 4:  Yehliu Geopark → Tamsui
 Day 5: Maokong → Ximending

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Day 1, 4th Apr: On top of the city
After rendezvous with Mr. Chill at the airport, as we took different flights separately, we hopped on a shuttle bus to our 4-star hotel in Taoyuan - 桃园.
Some info for those who can't live without internet during travel, Taiwan is well covered with free Wi-Fi everywhere even on some of the public transports. You may also purchase a prepaid data sim card (approx. NT$300 - $500, depend on your preferred package) upon arrival at the airport.
THSR one-way ticket from Taoyuan to Taipei City

After checked-in at the hotel, we took Ubus to THSR (Taiwan High Speed Rail - 台湾高铁) Taoyuan Station. Ubus is a daily shuttle service between the airport and THSR station in Taoyuan. With the hotel's help on phone-booking, the bus detoured and picked us at the hotel with same fare of NT$30 for one-way trip. THSR is the fastest way to travel to Taipei Main Station, despite its (slightly) higher price than other public transports. So don't bother to save a dollar when you can save time with a comfortable high speed train ride.
Taipei Main Station is a hub where public transports i.e.: THRS, Taiwan Railway (TRA), Taipei Metro Subway and buses converge. Easycard (悠遊卡) can be purchased at the station, which can be used to pay for subway, bus rides and other public transports. The card price is NT$100 without any balance in it, so you need to top-up before use.

We took the Metro and made our way to Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hallbuilt to commemorate Taiwan's former president. The complex consists of the Memorial Hall (pic right), Memorial Park, National Concert Hall and Theater, and a museum. The museum which exhibits Taiwan's and Chiang's history was closed by the time we got there, but we arrived just in time to observe the daily flag lowering ceremony by the hall guards.


In front of CKS Memorial Hall

Flag lowering ceremony




▲Memorial Hall Front Gate

Taking queue no. at DTF restaurant

Highly recommend the restaurant where we had dinner, Din Tai Fung (鼎泰豐). Originally from Taipei and well known for their 'xiaolongbao' (soup dumplings), DTF branches can now be found around the world. We went to the very first outlet located at Xinyi Road (信義路). Besides variety of delicious dumplings and local dishes, I have to compliment the waitresses, who provide top notch service and always wear a big smile on their faces. Despite it's crowded during peak hours, the queue was well organized and we did not wait too long for our table.


Our next stop was the most prominent landmark in the city, Taipei 101. Standing 508-meter tall in downtown Taipei, the world's 5th tallest building (by the time of our visit) comprises business offices, shopping mall and observatory deck.

To get to the observatory deck, visitors need to purchase the entry ticket which costs NT$500 at the 5th floor's counter, and then take the world's fastest elevator to the 89th floor (ascending 84 storeys in less than 40 seconds, no sweat!). The ticket is also comes with discount vouchers for souvenir shop and the famous beer ice-cream at the observatory deck, so don't miss it.

There are two observatories, indoor at 89th floor and outdoor at 91st floor, where you can enjoy the 360 degree panoramic view of the city, which I found exceptionally beautiful at night. Another highlight is the exhibition of Tuned Mass Damper, designed, constructed and installed in the skyscraper to withstand typhoons and earthquakes.

▲Visitors can send postcards from the skyscraper

▲The mascot - Damper Baby


Night view from the outdoor observatory


▲Tuned Mass Damper - marvellous engineering

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Day 2: To hike... or not to hike

As Mr. Chill did not schedule any business appointment, together we're on our way to Yangmingshan National Park (陽明山). Took Bus No.260 at the bus stop located in front of Taipei Main Station Exit North 2 (pic above), after struggled for awhile to locate the exact bus stop location (did I mention that Taipei Main Station is darn huge with its exits spread out far away from each other?)
After about an hour of bus ride, we alighted at Yangmingshan Main Station, which is at the base of the mountain. We managed to catch a glimpse of cherry blossoms there. According to the local guide, April is the tail end of cherry blossoms season at YMS.
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There are several main attraction spots at YMS, visitors may get to these places by Bus 108 (pic right). 1-Day Pass is available for sale at the station. With the price of NT$60 per pax, the pass offers unlimited ride on this bus around YMS. It is worth the money if you manage to visit four places or more in a day, as single bus fare from one spot to another is NT$15 (you know the math right?). We were so confident that we could make the passes worthy, but regretted as soon as we hopped on the bus! This area is too big to cover within one day, let alone we started our journey at late morning. Travelling time between each spots by bus take at least 10 mins, plus time spent wandering in each location by foot. (you can do the math, right?). My advice is to start your trip early in the morning, and don't buy the 1-Day Pass if it is not necessary. You can still pay the bus fare by cash or Easycard.

Our first stop was Zhuzihu (竹子湖), where the Calla Lillies (pic left) are farmed. You may choose to take a slow walk along the alleys and appreciate the nature of this place, or have a drink at one of the shops operated by the locals. Some farm owners offer visitors to spend some time in the farm and pick their favorite Calla Lilly for a fee.
▲Stroll in the park with Mr. Chill



▲Spend some quality times with your loved ones in the Calla Lilies farm



Next stop was Xiaoyoukeng (小油坑)about 10 mins bus ride through the mountainous road from Zhuzihu. Here you can see (and smell) the sulphur gas exhaust from the post-volcanic fumaroles.

▲Sulphur exhaust at Xiaoyoukeng

Start from Xiaoyoukeng, there is a hiking trail to the peak of Mt. Qixing (七星山), the highest point of Taipei City. The East Peak Trail is 1,6 km long, we hiked for about 10 mins and found out from the next milestone that we only covered 0.2 km! Realizing that it would take another 1+ hour to conquer this mountain, We gave up continue hiking.

Looking down from Mt. Qixing hiking trail

Another main attraction in YMS is Lengshuikeng (冷水坑) hot springswhere visitors can soak their foot in the outdoor pool or take a full body bath at the indoor facility. Our last destination of the day at YMS was Qingtiangang (擎天崗), a large grassland at the mountain top, with panoramic view of the scenery around the valley. Here is locals' favorite getaway during weekend, and the ideal scenic spot for graduation or marriage photo-taking sessions.




It was long queue at the Qingtiangang bus stop in the evening, as most visitors were catching the last bus back to the base. As stated on the schedule displayed at the bus stop, arrival time of the last bus was 5.30pm, But for god knows whatever reason, bus services were still available after 6 that day and we managed to take the bus.
Before going back to Taoyuan, we decided to fill our stomach at Shilin Night Market, located within walking distance from Jiantan (劍潭) subway station. The night market consists of stalls at both the upper-ground and underground level where you can find variety of Taiwan's local dishes. Among the delicacies we tried were oyster omelette, stinky tofu (it was my first taste of the dish, not a big fan of the smell) and 'small sausage in big sausage', which pork sausage is wrapped with sticky rice sausage.
▲oyster omelette

▲stinky tofu


▲small sausage in big sausage

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Day 3: 'Gold digging' on the Mountain
Went on solo as Mr. Chill had appointment with his customers. As usual, took the High Speed Rail to Taipei Main Station early in the morning. Initial plan was to take a train from Taipei to Jiufen (九份), but missed the next earliest train upon arrival at the station (well, this is how free and easy should work sometimes, not planning the timing properly and let the itinerary flows spontaneously. Yeah right...) Plan B was to get to Zhongxiao Fuxing (忠孝復興) subway station, and take bus no. 1062 from there. As I came out from the station's exit and made my way to the bus stop, there were many taxi drivers offered to take visitors to Jiufen. They told me that it would take 2 hrs traveling by bus, with NT$200 for a taxi, the travel time would be reduced by half. In fact, bus fare only costs NT$95 and traveling time is only about 1 hr. (Rules#1 while traveling abroad: never trust a street tout, do a bit of your own homework). Having said that, taxi may be the cheaper and comfortable option if you are traveling in a group of four.
Alighted at the Jiufen Old Street (九份老街) bus stop, where it is within walking distance to the street's entrance. The old street is a combination of small and narrow alleys with shops selling local products, souvenirs and delicacies.

Jiufen, alongside its neighboring Jinguashi, used to be the two gold mining towns founded during Japanese occupation. This place has been long abandoned when the treasured minerals depleted, but was then redeveloped to become tourism attraction. Today, the 'gold' or 'treasures' these old towns have to offer are the rich cultural heritage, unique architectures and tasty local delights.
Following were some of the must-try foods in Jiufen, tried and tested.
Peanut ice-cream roll
Combination of taro ice-cream, peanuts, maltose wrapped with spring roll skin. Specially tasty!
Taro balls 芋圆
Chewy rice balls in sweet soup. There are a couple of famous stalls around the corner, but I suggest the stall located at the side alley with stairs leading up to higher ground, as customers get to enjoy the hill view of Jiufen while savoring the taro balls soup in their observatory floor.
▲Remember this stall



▲Amazing dessert and view!

Glutinous Rice Cake (草仔粿)
Depends on your taste preference, there are two flavors to choose from: sweet - with red bean fillings; and salty - with salted green bean fillings

▲Red bean fillings - my preferred taste

My taste buds and stomach are itching while writing this section, I'm definitely going back to Taiwan!
Besides filling up your belly, strolling through the maze of alleys and shop around the Old Street is also a good treat during this cooling season of spring.
▲Through the narrow alleys of Jiufen Old Street

▲Cat-themed merchandise shop




Came across an old cinema-turned-museum: Shengping Theater, which opens to public's visit for free. Believe they were still showing old movies at selected timings for free during my visit.


▲Movie showtimes


Old projector display
Another 15 mins bus ride from Jiufen is where Jinguashi (金瓜石) located. The Jinguashi Gold Museum is a complex of buildings showcases the history of gold mining industry. Some of the highlight exhibitions are the building architecture, mining equipment & processes, and gold mine transportation system.
▲Gold museum main entrance

The first exhibition area upon entry from the museum main gate is the Four Joined Japanese-Style Residences. As the name suggests, it was a residential building joined by four houses of different amenities.
▲Front view of Four Joined Japanese Residences

▲Underground war shelter - Four Joined Residence


Kitchen - Four Joined Residence





From the Four Joined Residences, walk further uphill will lead you to Gold Refining Building.

▲Gold Refining Building
 





There is a railway and cart system for gold transportation
▲Benshan No.5 Tunnel

▲Glory Square






Walked along the railway and reached Gold Building. The most valuable exhibit in this building, literally, is the 220 kg real gold brick, with digital board displaying the market price of the brick. Visitors are allowed to touch it (or move it, if you can)

▲Gold Building




▲Gold mines world map

▲The immovable object - 220 kg gold brick

I have missed out some other scenic spots nearby such as the Golden Waterfall and Teapot Mountain due to insufficient time, as I needed to catch the last bus back to Taipei City. Recommend to stay overnight instead of doing a day-trip like I did. There are so much to explore here!

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Day 4: Along the north coast


▲In front of Yehliu bus stop

From Taipei Main Station, walked to Taipei West Bus Terminal A, located southwest of Main Station. From the bus terminal, bought the bus ticket which cost NT$96 and took the express bus for about 1-1/2 hrs to Yehliu (野柳), cape in northern part of New Taipei (新北市). Alighted at Yehliu stop (buses in Taiwan are equipped with digital boards indicate the next stop, so don't worry that you'd miss your destination), walked along the fishing port for about 10 mins and arrived at the main entrance of Yehliu Geopark (野柳地質公園)
▲On the way to Geopark

▲Yehliu fishing port


Geopark's entrance fee is NT$80 for adult; NT$40 for half-fare (in Taiwan, when you see 'half-fare', it normally means price for student, children and senior citizen).
Stretching 1.7 km from the park's main gate to the ocean, the cape features stunning scenery of naturally-formed geological landscape, caused by wave erosions, rock weathering and earth's tectonic movement over many years. The rock formations here are named based on their unique shapes, the most representative one is the 'Queen's Head' (女王頭) (pic below)

There was a long queue of tourists who wanted to take picture with the "Queen", but I managed to find the right angle and took a selfie without waiting in line. When there's a will, there's a way, especially when you travel solo.


▲Cute Princess' replica


▲Memorial statue of a local hero, who sacrificed his life to save others




Walked along the trail to the most northern part of the cape, where it wasn't swamped by tourists. Enjoyed the quiet moment at the observatory pavilion, with cool sea breeze blowing and amazing view of the China Sea.


 ▲Focused... - group of birds photographing enthusiasts









▲'Sea Candles'


Spent about 3 hrs in the park and then took a bus to Tamsui (淡水) from the same bus stop this morning. Despite felt sleepy on the bus, couldn't resist to keep my eyes open as we traveled along the breathtaking view of Taiwan's northern coastline. Travelers may choose to alight at the popular beach paradise White Sand Bay (白沙灣), where the bus pass by along the way.







After almost 2 hrs of bus ride, finally arrived at Tamsui Station. Tamsui (means ''fresh water" in Chinese) riverside area is a popular hangout spot for the locals during weekend. Enjoyed a slow walk along the waterfront promenade, couldn't catch a glimpse of the sunset view though due to the cloudy weather. But for me, this place and its scenery is just perfect for spending a cool evening of April. Visited Tamsui Old Street (淡水老街), where it is within walking distance from the promenade, a street full of shops, restaurants, snacks and games stalls.
There are ferry services which cruise across Tamsui River to Bali Left Bank (八里左岸), where it is a popular cycling site located at the opposite shore of Tamsui.





At the end of the day before heading back to Taoyuan, took a bus to Tamsui Fisherman's Wharf (漁人碼頭), located about 5 km away from Tamsui Station. This fishing boats harbor famous landmark is the cable-stayed Lover's Bridge (情人橋), which its shape resembles the mast and rigging of a sailing ship. The bridge is illuminated by colorful lights at night. 



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Day 5: Keep calm and have a cup of tea
Mr. Chill was flying back to Singapore while I extended my stay in Taiwan for one more night. My plan was to fly to Seoul from Taipei the next day and join (again) his holiday trip with his other friends. Stay tuned for the tag along trip part 2 soon, but now back to Taiwan...
This island-state is famous for its tea culture, so the last day of my visit was to have a taste of locally grown tea. From Taipei Station, took the Metro subway and alighted at Taipei Zoo Station, where the Maokong Gondola station is just 5 mins walk away. Maokong (貓空, means "cat sky") is a tea growing village located at the highland. 
Took the cable car from base station (Taipei Zoo Station) to Maokong Station, the terminal on the mountain top. If you are not in a hurry, recommend to queue for the Crystal Cabins a.k.a "Eyes of Maokong Gondola", which the cable car bottom was fitted with glass. It gives a stunning view directly underneath your legs! The fare of the Crystal Cabin is the same as regular cabin, but with less number of cabins in service as compared to the regular ones.
▲Maokong cable car fare list


▲Crystal Cabin - stunning experience




Visitors can lay back, have a cup of tea and meal in one of many tea houses, tea-themed cafes and restaurants here, or walk along the hiking trails across the hilly terrain.

 
 
▲Signboard of attractions at Maokong, which indicate direction and distance
Visitors can  reach these spots by foot or by bus







After wandering directionless for about half an hour, stopped by this restaurant which is claimed to be the highest point of Maokong.


The waitress was quite friendly and passionate, she recommended I should try almost all the dishes on the menu! Maybe she didn't realize that I was alone... Anyway, ordered a plate of Oolong tea leaves fried rice and a pot of tieguanyin tea for lunch. As per stated on the signboard shown above, the weather was ideal for tea tasting, although it was cloudy and couldn't have a clear view of Taipei from the mountain top.




Continued taking a walk along the hiking trails for another 45 mins and then took a bus to Zhinan Temple Station.


▲Tea Popularization Centre

▲One of the hiking trails in Maokong




After some photo-snapping around Zhinan Temple, took the cable car back to Taipei Zoo Station.




Headed to Ximen Station by taking the Metro. Ximending (西門町), also well-known as "Harajuku" or "Shibuya" of Taipei is a youth pedestrian shopping district, which offers a wide range of fashion shops, as well as pubs and bars at the surrounding area.



Came across this famous flour-rice noodles stall which has been around for more than 40 years. Patrons were waiting in line to order and having the bowl of noodles by standing around the stall, or at anywhere else they'd prefer, as there are no tables and seats at the stall.


Day 6: I will be back...
It's time to say goodbye (reluctantly) and make my way to the next destination. Sometimes people would call Taiwan as Bao Dao(宝岛), which means "Treasure Island" in Mandarin. Besides the rich culture, history and the scenic views of its nature, I think the most valuable treasure that Taiwan has to offer is their people. Never failed to give you a warm welcome with a smile wherever you go, their hospitality makes you feel like home. There are just too much to explore across the island, and my itinerary barely scratched the surface.
Till we meet again, ❤ Taiwan!

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