Tuesday, 10 October 2017

Roaming Hong Kong & Macau - 7D6N in Oriental Pearl & Las Vegas of Asia

7 Days in Hong Kong & Macau
Victoria Harbour, Hong Kong - May, 2016

"The night view of HK is really beautiful"(香港夜景真係靓)

This famous line from the TVB (HK-based renowned media company & TV channel) television series lingers in my mind since I was a kid. I have to say that my affection to Hong Kong stems from continuous exposure to its entertainment celebrities & productions - movies, TV shows, music dated back to the 80's. There's no other way, Oriental Pearl has to be on top of my solo travel bucket list!


Itinerary: 
   Hong Kong
 Day 1Tsim Sha TsuiLadies MarketTemple Street→Starry GalleryTST Promenade
 Day 2Lantau Island→Victoria Peak→Central Pier
 Day 3Sha Tin cycling trailHong Kong Heritage Museum→Kowloon ParkSymphony of Light
 Day 4Big Wave Bay→Wan Chai→Causeway Bay→Lan Kwai Fong
 Day 5Lamma Island→Repulse Bay

 Macau
 Day 6Ruins of St. Paul's→Monte Fort→Macau Museum→Senado Square→Lisboa Casino→Wynn Macau
 Day 7The Venetian→Fly home from Macau

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Day 1, 23rd May - Every inch of land costs a fortune

 Airlines: Jetstar Asia
 Departure: Changi Airport, Singapore
 Arrival: Hong Kong Intl Airport
 Duration: 4 hours
 Airfare: SG$166 (Singapore Dollar) 1pc 20kg check-in luggage+meal included


Safely landed on time after 4 hours flight. Needed to get a few things done at the airport before moving to downtown:
1) Bought the CSL Tourist SIM Card at 1O1O shop (I guess it's pronounced one-ol-one-ol, whatever...), which is located at the arrival hall. Got the 8-day package which also includes international roaming in Macau. More info about the SIM's packages & prices can be found in CSL's website.

2) Got an Octopus card 八达通from the customer service desk at the train station, across the overhead bridge from arrival hall. This stored-value e-card is widely used for public transport in Hong Kong, it costs HK$150 ($50 refundable deposit + $100 stored value).

Took Citybus A21 from the airport bus terminal to Tsim Sha Tsui (尖沙嘴) (adult single way: HK$33; duration: 1hr), it should be the cheapest way to get to Kowloon (九龙) district compares to train & taxi. Visit these links for fares, schedules & journey planner info for trains & buses.


The guesthouse where I stayed is located in Chungking Mansion (重庆大厦), a 17-storey complex in Tsim Sha Tsui consist of retail shops, malls, guesthouses & private residences. You'd be shocked when you visit here for the first time, as this place is predominantly occupied by Africans & South Asians doing business here, touting their products or guesthouses, and you won't miss the strong curry smell as well! For a moment I thought I wasn't in Kowloon after all. (go watch Wong Kar-wai's movie Chungking Express, you'll know what I mean).

 Las Vegas Guest House 
 Address: Chungking Mansion, 36-44 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon
 Single room price: HK$1,110 (5 nights)
 Reservation website: Booking.com


The guesthouse's name may sound luxurious, but the actual premise was nothing close to luxury. There's no check-in desk, went to the floor specified in the confirmation email & met the person in-charge (secretly). Paid her the full rental in cash, she then led me to my room which was at higher floor. The room was the size of a "pigeon hole" just enough to fit a single bed & a built-in toilet, had to keep my luggage underneath the bed for more moving space. I can barely turn my body in the toilet-cum-shower. It's the cheapest place I could find, but what you get is not always what you pay for. Well, you may have heard this quote:"every inch of land in HK costs a fortune" before, but seeing is believing.

Despite this place is considerably cheap; many tourists, backpackers, men or women, solo or group travellers choose to stay here; and I left the place in one piece (so personal safety shouldn't be an issue), I wouldn't highly recommend it to you, as the ambiance may not suit everyone. To me, it's OK for budget travel, and it certainly brought back some good memories of my favourite movie.

Hong Kong is famed for it's variety of great food, whether it's restaurant cuisines or street bites, so I was on a gastronomic adventure to hunt for the best in town. First stop was the egg waffles, which its main ingredients are eggs, sugar, flour, milk that make the batter, was then cooked between two molds of semi-spherical cells. The "crispy on the outside, soft on the inside" waffle is best eaten hot & plain, but there are also other flavours to choose from nowadays.


The most convenient way to get around the city is by taking Mass Transit Railway (MTR), the train system consist of above-ground & subway rails covering the major districts across Hong Kong including the airport & Lantau Island.

Took the subway from Jordan to Mong Kok (旺角), where Ladies Market (aka Tong Choi Street) is located. A one-kilometre stretch flea market with more than 100 stalls that offer wide range of clothing, accessories & souvenirs, you name it, they'll most certainly have it. You don't need to actually be a lady to find something that suits your taste, you just need to hone your bargaining skill to get the best deal around here.

Right beside Ladies Market is Fa Yuen Street, also known as Sneakers Street. As the name suggests, the street with the whole stretch of sportswear & shoes outlets is where people in HK & even from around the world flock in to get themselves a pair of trendy new arrival.


Located nearby Jordan (佐敦) & Yau  Ma Tei (油麻地) MTR stations is Temple Street Night Market, or simply known as "Miu Gai" 庙街in Cantonese. As filming scenes in countless TV dramas & movies, this vibrant night bazaar preserves the image of old-time Hong Kong, with opera singers & fortune tellers lay out their trades by the street, not to mention the mahjong parlours (pic left) that still can be found here.


▲Believers waiting for their fortunes to be told

▲Opera singers performing by the street

Temple Street is the home for many local food, one of them is the claypot rice. There are a few popular eateries here that serve this hot steaming dish, but to beat the crowd & chose to trust the Google Map reviews, I went to a lesser known stall (which had higher rating than the other popular ones), it turned out fine. There's claypot rice in other parts of the world, no disrespect to this signature local dish, but I still prefer the taste from my home country.

▲Claypot pork rice

Initial plan was to visit Avenue of Stars located at Tsim Sha Tsui Promenade, which is the tribute to the local film-making industry, and stage for many memorable movie-related exhibits. Sadly it was closed for renovation (until 2018) during my visit. Went to the nearby Starry Gallery instead, where some of the exhibits are temporarily put on display until the new-look Avenue of Stars is opened. Walking in this covered museum, with a glimpse of many classic movie posters, lines and murals of actors & characters was like a trip down memory lane. Scene after scene of these movies (and soundtracks) suddenly emerged playing in my mind. Follow this link for more info on Avenue of Stars & Starry Gallery.




Before getting back to my guesthouse, took a stroll along TST Promenade & enjoyed the serene, undisturbed view of Hong Kong Island's cityscape across the Victoria Harbour at night.

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Day 2 - Path to wisdom, peace, and stunning views
Morning in Hong Kong was probably my most anticipated moment every day, with a simple but fulfilling breakfast started a great day ahead. I didn't search for the "recommended" or "must eat" from reputable travel guides, instead I went taking a stroll around TST & tried out the local breakfast set meals at any random “cha chaan teng” 茶餐厅 (HK-style cafe) I could find, it never disappoint.
▲The cafe menu, with variety of choices for different time slots of the day

▲Simple but tasty - breakfast set in HK (different cafes may serve different combination) macaroni with ham, butter toast, omelette & HK milk tea

Besides HK Island & Kowloon district, Hong Kong also comprises several outlying islands, the largest and most popular one is Lantau Island (大屿山). One way of getting to Lantau Island is by taking the Tung Chung Line train to Tung Chung (东涌) station, via Tsing Ma Bridge (青马大桥).
▲on a train to Tung Chung


A 5-minute walk from the train station will get to Tung Chung cable car terminal, which connects to Ngong Ping (昂平). A one-way standard cabin adult ticket costs HK$130, but there also other packages such as round trip ticket, Crystal Cabin (higher price & longer waiting time), guided tours for visitors to choose from. Visit the Ngong Ping 360 website for more info.


The cable car ride takes about 25 minutes, you know you're almost there when the famous Big Buddha is in sight.


After coming out from the cable car station, walked to Ngong Ping Village where you can find eateries, souvenir shops & several tourist attractions. This appears to be an obvious tourist trap & I fell for it, bought some postcards at inflated price! Well, it was my first time buying postcards so I didn't know how much a reasonable price should be, only to find out they're sold at way cheaper prices in other part of the island. The only way I could console myself was the postcards looked beautiful & my friends should love it. (So for those who received my postcards & happen to read this, please cherish my gift to you. Don't misplace it somewhere in your drawer.)


▲Bodhi Wishing Shrine - write your wish & hang it here

Walked further & arrived at Ngong Ping Piazza, the square that links to several Buddhism-themed attractions, one of them is the magnificent Tian Tan Buddha (天坛大佛), also known as the Big Buddha. Climbing more than 200 steps under the burning sun to see it up close was surely a challenging task, but I gotta give it a go to get closer with Buddha. Amitabha...



▲The view from top makes the time & effort of climbing up here worthwhile

▲lotus pond in the Monastery

Nearby Big Buddha is the hundred-year-old Po Lin Monastery, Buddhism sacred temple which embodies the religion's culture, teachings & architecture. Follow this link if you wish to learn more about the Monastery & Big Buddha.

▲follow the sign to Wisdom Path

A short walk from Monastery & Big Buddha will get to Wisdom Path on the hills of Ngong Ping, lined with 38 wooden monuments inscribed with prayer verses from the Heart Sutra. Walk along these prayers, surrounded by scenery of sea & mountain, one may find wisdom & peace, which are the two virtues pursued by Buddhists.




Walked back to Ngong Ping Village & took bus #21 to Tai O (大澳), a fishing village located in west coast of the island. Here's the home to the Tanka people, the local fishermen community who built their stilt houses & literally live on the water. This was a perfect getaway from the 'forest' of skyscrapers & crowd, a quiet & easy walk through the small alleyways; slow down & smell the shrimp paste; had a taste of the local delights - rice cake & tofu pudding; and enjoy the scenery on Fu Shan (Tiger Mountain). There are lot of things to do here in a day!
▲there are plenty to explore in Tai O





▲glutinous rice cake

▲Shaolin Wushu Culture Centre

▲Fu Shan Hiking Trail




▲stilt houses

▲smooth & refreshing tofu pudding (tau-fu-fa, as the locals call it) served with honey



While writing this blog only I realize Tai O is such a picturesque place. Have taken loads of photos & I almost wanna share it all here!


From Tai O bus terminal, took bus #1 to Mui Wo (梅窝), a town in east coast of Lantau Island (from Tai O, one can also take bus back to Ngong Ping or Tung Chung). The bus ride took about an hour to arrive Mui Wo, but I didn't explore the place too much. Instead, spend just enough time for a butter toast, and then took the 1-hour ferry ride to Central (中环) in HK Island.

▲Mui Wo - Central ferry timetable & fares



It was rainy day in Central, but it seems the rain couldn't slow down the city's rush hour rhythm even for a second.


Fortunately the rain stopped when I arrived at Central. My next destination for the evening was Victoria Peak, the compulsory place to visit in Hong Kong. About half an hour walk started from Central Pier, through Central Station, and passed by some of the HK's iconic landmarks got me to The Peak Tram lower terminus.

▲follow the sign...

▲... or follow the landmarks, you won't get lost


 The Peak Tram 
 Operating Hours: 7am - 12am daily
 Tickets:  Adult - HK$32 (One way) / HK$45 (Return)
 Children/Senior - HK$12 (One way) / HK$20 (Return)
 Website: http://www.thepeak.com.hk/en/home.asp


This funicular train system has been taking tourists & residents to HK Island's highest peak since 19th century. Sat in the tram, looking out the window for the view while the tram slowly crawling up the steep track gave me that feeling of accomplishment. This is something full of history, something you've gotta do in HK.



The feeling when arriving at the peak was even better! There are several vantage points and observatories for visitors to gaze upon the city's skyline. At this moment, that TVB line came straight back to my mind again. Amazing view!
Besides the scenery, tourists can also visit other attractions such as Madame Tussaud wax museum & Peak Tower. Visit The Peak's website for more info.



After marvelled by the stunning night view at the peak, a big cross off my bucket list, went back to Central Piers for... more night views!
▲overhead bridge linking downtown Central to Piers


▲Hong Kong Observation Wheel

▲looking on Wan Chai from Central Pier

▲Central Piers


From Central, took the Star Ferry (天星小轮) back to Tsim Sha Tsui. The iconic Star Ferry has been taking passengers between HK Island & Kowloon across Victoria Harbour (pic left: ferry routes) for more than 120 years. Despite both sides of HK are well connected by modern rail & road tunnel system nowadays, Star Ferry is still a popular mode of transport for the locals & tourists, as it's a special way to admire the Harbour's view, it's reliable & efficient, and not to mention it's ridiculously cheap! Follow this link for ferry timetable & fares.




There were a few youngsters busking at Tsim Sha Tsui Pier, performing local & international pop music. The young audience enjoyed it very much, it seems like a popular culture among the local youth & indie artists here, I too had a good time listening to some relaxing tunes by the bay at night.

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Day 3 - Pedalling by the riverside
The travel experience that I sought after was not limited to visiting popular touristy spots, but also to blend in to the local community, to have a taste of their lifestyle & culture. One of the popular pastime here is cycling, I like cycling too, so why not?
There are a lot of cycling trails with fascinating scenery in New Territories, where cyclists can embrace the harmony between city, suburb & nature landscapes.

New Territories comprises the Outlying Islands, and also region of wetlands, parks, mountains in north of Kowloon (Source: Google Map & Wikipedia)


Took the MTR from Tsim Sha Tsui to Tai Wai (大围)station, rented a bike from a shop opposite of the train station, started from there & cycled on the trail along Shing Mun River in Sha Tin (沙田) district. The 17-km journey took me a little less than 4 hours to complete, an opportunity to get away from the hustle & bustle of the city center & breath the quiet fresh air of Hong Kong suburb. Details about the cycling route that I followed is in this link.

▲Shing Mun River






▲school day out

▲Tai Po Waterfront Park 



▲coastline view from Lookout Tower in Tai Po Waterfront Park

▲too delicious that I forgot to take photo before tuck in

Ended my ride at Tai Po (大埔) Waterfront Park & returned the bike to the shop nearby Tai Po Market Station. Enjoyed a delicious local-style set lunch at a randomly found cafe.

 Lunch: Xin Hao Dim Sum Restaurant
 Nearest MTR station:  Tai Po Market
 Opening Hours: 6am - 1am daily

▲Tai Wai Market Station

Stumbled upon Hong Kong Heritage Museum nearby the point where I started cycling in Sha Tin this morning, decided to take the train back to Tai Wai & visit the museum.

The Heritage Museum showcases collection of local history, culture, art & literature, spanning from the ancient times to the modern age, for young & old, these are valuable heritage for generations to come. Admission is free for the permanent exhibitions, there are also chargeable limited-time-only special exhibitions.






▲contemporary art exhibits

There's even a kids gallery with some nostalgic childhood board games & toys on display, it surely brought back a lot of anyone's childhood memories.


▲the good old snake-and -ladder board game

▲Bruce Lee statue in front of the museum

Joined the guided-tour on probably the most popular special exhibition at the time, Bruce Lee: Kung Fu - Art - Life, which introduces the life of the legend, his struggles & contribution to the film industry & martial art. I wasn't from the generation when Bruce Lee was a big hit, to me he's just a kung fu actor with some exaggerating moves. But after going through his life journey in the tour, then only I realized why Hong Kong people respect & look up to him so much.

 Exhibition: Bruce Lee: Kung Fu - Art - Life
 Period: From now until 20 July 2018
 Location: Hong Kong Heritage Museum
 Admission: Free (check website for guided-tour schedule)
 Website: heritagemuseum.gov.hk



It's dessert time after history & cultural lessons. Visited the Australia Diary Company (澳洲牛奶公司) in Jordan, which is famous for its milk pudding, scramble eggs, toast & custard. The cafe's name was given by its owner, who worked on an Australian farm back in the 40's. Here's always jam-packed with patrons, and it's a norm to share table with other customers when you patronize popular eateries in HK. The milk pudding was silky smooth & the scramble egg toast was a bliss (pic below). Highly recommended!

Restaurants & cafes in HK are commonly known for ill-mannered service by their waiters, especially to customers who order slowly & stay a bit longer. But during my time here, efficient service? Yes, they took order, served food, cleaned up in a flash; being rude and rush me into leaving? Nope, never felt any such misbehaviour toward me.

I thought it would be a good idea to burn some calories after a hearty afternoon dessert, taking a walk in Kowloon Park nearby fits the bill. With the area size of 13 hectares, this former site of British Army barracks now serves as the "green lung" for Tsim Sha Tsui offering wide range of recreation facilities to the public. The park also features the Avenue of Comic Stars (pics below), with many figures of famous local comic characters on display along the pathway.


▲The famous comic character for young & old - Old Master Q (老夫子)


Got back to TST waterfront by 8pm to catch the daily Symphony of Lights. Named as the "world's largest permanent light & sound show" by Guinness World Records, it features coloured lights & beams projected on the landmarks on both sides of the Victoria Harbour, coupled with music & narration about HK's cultural diversity, history & heritage.
▲TST waterfront is the place in Kowloon side to see the light show

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Day 4 - Beach & city self-guided walking tour 

Breakfast gives the energy you need to kickstart a beautiful day, especially a day that involve a lot of walking. A bowl of Nissin's noodle with meatballs, sausages & fried egg was the tasty boost I needed.

 Brekkie: Aomen Dim Sum Restaurant
 Address:  25 Lock Road, Tsim Sha Tsui
 Nearest MTR station: Tsim Sha Tsui
 Hours: 6:30am - 2am daily


Don't remember exactly why I chose Big Wave Bay Beach (in east coast of HK Island) as my next destination, maybe because it's less crowded than the other popular beaches. Anyway, took the train to Shau Kei Wan (筲箕湾) station. Supposed to get to Big Wave Bay from SKW by bus, but stumbled upon HK's very own red-top minibuses (pic right) which also going the same direction, so decided to hop on one instead. Minibuses typically charge lower fare compare to buses, passengers pay the driver by cash upon boarding or alighting.

Big Wave Bay is located in Shek O, a village surrounded by beaches & bays facing South China Sea & backed by Dragon's Back mountain ridge. Big Wave (as you probably can tell by the name) is the paradise for windsurfing, often crowded with surfers during the peak season.

From the beach, hikers can explore the Dragon's Back trails connecting to Shek O Country Park.



Big Wave Bay is also the site for some significant prehistoric rock carving discoveries in HK, which depict the lifestyle & culture of the ancient inhabitants.



Didn't continue on the hiking trail to the peak, instead took a short walk around Shek O village before making my way back to SKW by minibus.
▲local kiosk for refreshments

▲laneways in the village

Shau Kei Wan (means "Colander Bay" in Cantonese) is a town in northeastern HK island, named after the bay where it is located. The bay got the name due to its shape that resembles a colander. Name of the bay was then changed to Aldrich Bay, named after a British navy captain who used to work there. Nowadays, Shau Kei Wan is referred to the town, while Aldrich Bay is the bay's name.
In early 19th century, fishermen from the neighbouring districts flocked in to this area as it's a good shelter from storm, thus increasing the population. Today SKW is one of the most populated town in HK.

▲Shau Kei Wan town

Found a day market on the street here (pic right), it's a long-stretch combination of both dry & wet markets where locals buy their supplies of fresh seafood, fruits, vegetables & all other kitchen's ingredients.

Had plain "cheong fun" (HK-style steamed rice noodle rolls) served with spicy & sweet sauces, with sesame sprinkled on top as a quick lunch, which was bought from a street stall. This is one of those "must-try" local dishes in HK which you can find in either dim sum restaurants or street stalls.

▲lunch takeaway in SKW - Chinese steamed rice rolls

Took the train from SKW to Wan Chai (湾仔), the commercial center in HK Island's north coast facing Victoria Harbour.

A city area packed with commercial buildings & offices, this might sound dull & boring? Not really, Wan Chai is vibrant, featuring mix of modernity & heritage facade throughout the city, and filled with local cultures. There are so much to explore here, let me walk you through the journey...

First stop after coming out from MTR station is Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre (HKCEC). this world-class modern landmark sits majestically on the Expo Promenade overseeing Victoria Harbour was the venue for 1997 Hong Kong Handover Ceremony between British & China Governments. Right beside HKCEC is the Forever Blooming Golden Bauhinia sculpture, a gift from China Government during the '97 Ceremony, Golden Bauhinia is the emblem of Hong Kong. Located at north western side of HKCEC is The Reunification Monument.
▲Golden Bauhinia, with HKCEC in the background

▲HKCEC

▲Reunification Monument

▲View of Kowloon on the opposite shore

▲Central skyline viewed from Expo Promenade

▲A Star Ferry cruising along Victoria Harbour

Also located at the promenade nearby Golden Bauhinia Square is the Ani-Com Park which features 30 statues of HK's most classic animation & comic characters, depicting local's culture, lifestyle & favourite pastimes. If these characters have kept you in good company growing up, this is the place to take some memorable pictures.
▲Stop & smell the flower (and take some pictures too!)
Character: Old Master Q (老夫子)

▲Doggie (阿狗)

▲skirmish on the mahjong table between 2 unlikely opponents
Characters: On On & Guy Guy (砻猫, left) and Liaoyuan Huo (燎原火, right)

▲Chess time with Wang Xiao Hu (王小虎) from the comic "Tiger & Dragon Heroes"

▲Lazy afternoon with characters from the comic "Cowboy (牛仔)"

▲"Yo! Selfie, anyone?"
Character: Guo Jing (郭靖)
Comic: Legend of the Condor Heroes (射雕英雄传)

▲The Bruce Lee comic was inspired by his movie "The Big Boss"

Continued my walking tour in southward direction to downtown Wan Chai. Bumped into this guy on O'Brien Road overhead bridge, he's so kind to pose for picture. It's kind of an inspiration for my travel plans... maybe not. I'd never have the guts to globetrotting with drained wallet like he does.

Located at the junction of Johnston Road & Tai Wong Street East is The Pawn, formerly an pre-war era Chinese tenement building which housed the Woo Cheong Pawn Shop when the business thrived back in the old days. The building was renovated with its historical features and facade preserved, and transformed to trendy restaurant & bar nowadays.


Took a further walk around the area to explore other historical landmarks which perfectly blend in with the modern cityscape: Yellow/Orange/Blue Houses, old residential buildings with distinctive colour-painted walls; 150-year-old Pak Tai (Emperor of the North) Temple (pic left), which signifies the god-worshipping culture of the local community.
▲Wan Chai city walking tour (Source: Google Map)



Randomly found a "chaa chan teng" to hang out and had a local-style afternoon tea: milk tea + pineapple bun with butter + egg tart (pic right, the tart's already long gone...). This is a typical neighbourhood restaurant with authentic local taste & ambiance. Besides the tasty food & drink, the view not to be missed here were the "iconic" waiters in white uniform, some with pen or cigarette on one side of their ear (pic below). They were not as harsh to customers as depicted in the TV dramas, I actually found their service was OK, maybe I wasn't "sluggish" like some other patrons.

 Kam Fung Cafe 
 Address: 41, Spring Garden Lane, Wan Chai (5min walk from The Pawn)
 Opening Hours: 6:45am - 7pm

(Photo taken from internet)

Hopped on a double-decker city tram (pic left, known as the "ding-ding" car by locals due to the sound emitted by the tram when moving) from one of the tram station at Hennessy Road. At first struggled to figure out the tram's routes, but in the end it didn't really matter as I just wanted to get the feel of riding on one. Enjoyed the city views during the short journey before alighting at Causeway Bay.

Each single trip on the city tram costs HK$2.30 flat rate, regardless how far is the journey. Board the tram at the back, pay the exact fare by cash / tap Octopus card at the front before getting off.


Causeway Bay (铜锣湾 or Tung Lo Wan) is the bustling shopping district located east side of Wan Chai. The area is home to many departmental stores & malls which offer the most trendy fashion products from both local & international brands.

Travelled back to Central by train, had dinner there & waited till nightfall to visit Lan Kwai Fong (兰桂坊), a vibrant nightlife area with bars & pubs set along a few stretches of small lanes. Had few glasses of beer at one of the pub & people-watching as time goes by, kinda chilled...

Another one of HK's Guinness World Records (the other one's Symphony of Light, remember?) is just within walking distance from LKF, the Central-Mid-Levels Escalators. The world's longest outdoor covered escalator system comprises 20 escalators & 3 inclined moving walkways, covering the total distance of 800 meters & elevation of 135 meters from start to end, connecting Central district to Mid-Levels (an luxurious housing area located halfway up Victoria Peak, directly above Central)


As I didn't have any particular plan for the rest of the night, decided to travel up on the escalator, maybe was to get myself sober after the booze & to find out what those high class mansions in Mid-Level look like. Stopped midway as something else caught my attention, saw a "dai pai dong" (大排档) as I looked out on the street. It's a kind of open air food stalls which is popular in HK, how could I missed having a meal here?!

Sat down & randomly ordered a dish & a bottle of beer (I guess it's "compulsory" to have one anyway). I'd forgotten exactly what dish I ordered, maybe it's vegetables cooked with pork offal (pic right), but I'd never forget the taste, it's the best meal I had in HK so far! (No disrespect to other food I had in the past few days, but to me this beat all of them)

The stall's always full of customers, the cook was in action non-stop at the open kitchen. All walks of life: white & blue collar, young & old gathered here at night for a hot-steaming meal after a day's work. Here's the place where you discover the real local taste of Hong Kong.


Went back to Kowloon district by taking Star Ferry. Stumbled upon another busking session at TST pier, this had become my every night's entertainment before ending the day.
▲talented street artists have the local support 

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Day 5 - Off the beaten path
▲Level 1 typhoon warning sign

Summer is a hot & humid season, it rains frequently & occasionally come with tropical storm or typhoon. Way before typhoon comes, Hong Kong Observatory's storm warning system will alert the local community so people can take precautionary measures in advance. Typhoon forecast / warning normally will be posted on the Observatory's website, television, and warning signs in public places like this one (pic left) at Chungking Mansion main entrance.

▲another gloomy day in Hong Kong

From Central Pier, took the ferry to Lamma Island (南丫岛), the 3rd largest island in HK. Visitor can travel by ferry & alight at either one of the piers on the island - Yung Shue Wan (榕树弯) or Sok Kwu Wan (索罟灣). I chose the former to start off my day on the island. The 30-minute boat journey carried me away from the bustling views of Kowloon & HK Island skylines, to the serene landscape of the outlying island.
▲escaped from the city...

▲... to the tranquil outlying island

▲arriving Yong Shue Wan Pier

Automobiles are not allowed on the island, the only ways to get around are by foot or bike, and buildings higher than 3-storey are prohibited here. Lamma's peaceful & laid-back environment, and cheap property & rental attract many mid-class & expats to reside here. Yong Shue Wan is the village with most of the island's population.
▲Lamma's road map





▲YSW Pier

After having lunch at Yong Shue Wan, took a hike uphill on Lamma Family Walking Trail to Lamma Winds. It was raining badly, but the downpour couldn't stop the visitors (and me) enjoying this beautiful island by foot.



▲arriving at Lamma Winds after 20min walk


Lamma Winds (right), with blade diameter of 50m, 71m tall & rated power of 800kW is HK's first wind turbine, built to develop & support renewable green energy. This location on Lamma was chosen to commission the turbine  because it's one of the windiest spot in HK. At the base of the turbine is an exhibition area introducing the project & renewable energy to the public.


Besides admiring the majestic wind turbine, the surrounding views here are awe-inspiring too!

Headed 1km south from Lamma Winds & got to Hung Shing Ye (洪圣爷) Beach. Didn't see many tourists or swimmers around (maybe due to the weather & wave condition), it's the best spot to have some quiet & undisturbed moments. It's just you, the sea and the whispers of nature.


Walked further south along the hilly walking trail by the Hung Shing Ye Bay, the scenery here is stunning, with Lamma Power Station in sight.

▲view of Lamma Power Station over Hung Shing Ye Bay


This trip needed the "legs of steel" as it involved a hell lot of walking! Arriving Sok Kwu Wan, a fishing village on the east coast of Lamma, after another 20-minute walk.
▲Sok Kwu Wan

▲fishermen's settlement on the sea in SKW

▲Tin Hau Temple

There are lot of seafood restaurants along Sok Kwu Wan Street, where you can have a nice meal of fresh seafood by the seaside.

▲Restaurants along SKW Street


Ended the Lamma Island trip in Sok Kwu Wan & took the ferry back to Central.
▲Central - SKW ferry timetable

Another gloomy day in Central, but it didn't extinguish my enthusiasm to continue roaming.


From Exchange Square Bus Terminal, hopped on a double-decker bus to Repulse Bay (浅水湾).


Took about an hour to arrive at Repulse Bay, a high-end residential area located south of HK Island. Besides luxury townhouses & condos, the main attraction here is surely the long stretch of crescent-shaped beach. (While writing this part of the blog, I discovered a very informative website about all beaches in HK)


▲Repulse Bay Beach


Located at southeast end of the Bay is Tin Hau Temple (天后庙), with two huge statues of Chinese deities Kwun Yum (观音) & Tin Hau at the front yard, seems like overseeing & giving blessing to Repulse Bay.
▲Kwun Yum statue

▲Tin Hau statue



▲Brisket noodle - Tsui Wah

Got back to Central, had dinner at one of the famous restaurant chain - Tsui Wah (翠华餐厅), which has been established for a long time with branches around HK, Macau & even Mainland China. This branch in Central opens 24hrs, so residents in the neighbourhood wouldn't need to worry about not able to get late suppers.

 Tsui Wah Restaurant 
 Address: 15 Wellington Street, Central
 Nearest MTR station:  Central
 Opening hours: 24 hours

▲another meal, another beer please...

Talking about supper, despite just had a bowl of filling brisket noodle, I couldn't resist the temptation of having a meal at last night's "dai pai dong" which is just within walking distance right away, and yes I did... Yeah, it was a "gastrofying" (gastronomic-satisfying) experience that night!

The exact location of this "dai pai dong" couldn't be found on Google Map. If you're travelling on the Mid-Level Escalator in the uphill direction, look out at the streets below on your right, you won't miss it.

Spent the final night in HK back at the guesthouse, did some self-service laundry & packed up for next day's journey.
▲self-service laundry facilities at Chungking Mansion

Hong Kong (translates as "Fragrant Harbour" in Cantonese) may appears to be a tiny harbour city on China's south coast. After centuries of transformation from a small fishing village of old to the global's metropolis of the modern world, going through periods of Western colonization, Japanese occupation, British ruling, and administration handover back to Mainland China, the vibrant Oriental Pearl is rich of history, culture, natural getaways, and variety of local cuisines which certainly has the charm to captivate traveller's heart.

Day 6 - "Crossing the Big Ocean"
The phrase above in Cantonese "过大海" typically to the locals means going to Macau from Hong Kong by ferry, and that's where I was heading to... Had a routine breakfast in one of the "chaa chan teng" nearby Chungking Mansion, and then made my way to China Hong Kong City by foot.

▲TurboJET ferry ticket counter

Here's where I bought the ferry ticket to Macau, departing from China Ferry Terminal. There are 2 main ferry operators & several terminals that serve the Hong Kong - Macau route, here's the link with more info about ways of getting to Macau from Hong Kong.


Located about 64km to the west of Hong Kong across Zhujiang River, Macau is a former Portuguese colony which same as Hong Kong, has been returned to Chinese sovereignty in 1999. Macau is famously known as the "Las Vegas of Asia" with many casinos & luxurious hotels established on its Taipa Island, while the old historic landmarks were preserved on Macau Peninsula of the north. This trip got to be fun...

...Or maybe not, as the weather hasn't been "welcoming" the whole day. Arrived at the Outer Harbour in Macau Peninsula after less than an hour of bumpy ferry ride. Hailed a cab to get to my homestay, the cab driver was a Cantonese-speaking Macanese (mixed Chinese/Portuguese descendant, native ethnic group in Macau) which made the communication much easier!

My homestay was just stone's throw away from Ruins of St. Paul's, located in Macau's Historic Centre. Found my way there by following detailed guide (with pictures & descriptions) sent by my host thru Whatsapp. I guess sometimes the downside of staying in homestay is you have to climb up the stairs with your luggage (it's my first time though), it certainly didn't make the experience any better when the host 'advised' me not to make the slightest sound while using the stairs, as it would disturb the neighbours.

My first stop after dropping my luggage was, of course, Ruins of St. Paul's (大三巴牌坊). This UNESCO World Heritage was originally the facade of 17th-century Church of Mater Dei, one of the the largest Catholic churches at that time. The church was burnt down by fire in the 19th century, its southern stone facade & crypts of the Jesuits who built the church are what that's left after the fire. The ruins were restored & the facade is buttressed with concrete & steel to preserve its aesthetic integrity.



All the landmarks & monuments in the Historic Centre are within my walkable distance. Located on the hill beside Ruins of St. Paul's is Monte Fort (or Mount Fortress, 大炮台), also built in 17th century & served as the city's military fortress back then. It was equipped with cannons, barracks, wells, and arsenal that once held sufficient supplies to endure siege lasting up to 2 years!

▲The fortress wall


▲city's panoramic view from the high point of Monte Fort



I did mentioned about the 'unwelcoming' weather in Macau, didn't I? You may have noticed on the pictures above too. It started raining bad, I mean real bad! Having literally nowhere to go outdoor, the only way was to take shelter indoor, and took the opportunity to visit Macao Museum (pic right, which is located at Monte Fort).

 Macao Museum 
 Opening Hours: 10am - 6pm, last admission @ 5:30pm, closed Monday, opened on public holiday
 Admission feeAdult: MOP15
Student card holders: MOP8
Children under 12, Senior Citizens above 65, Macau residents: Free
(Free admission for all on every Tuesday & 15th of every month)

The museum consist of 2 underground levels, and the 3rd level at the highest ground of the Fortress. It's the best place to learn about Macau's history & culture, and the way of life of the various local communities for centuries.
▲underground level in the Fortress

Spent couple of hours there & became very well-versed on Macau's history (yawn...), but the sky hadn't clear up yet. Decided to go outdoor anyway, with poncho & umbrella already prepared, nothing could spoil my mood & motivation!
▲Drenched - on the street of Macau historic centre

Wandered around under the rain in search of the iconic landmarks at the district. I managed to locate a few...
▲St. Dominic's Church - Baroque-style Catholic church founded in 16th century

▲Holy House of Mercy @ Senado Square

▲Senado Square

Senado Square is the popular venue for public events, the square is surrounded by shops & restaurants which are housed in neo-classical buildings.

▲The unique bilingual (Chinese & Portuguese) street signs can be seen everywhere in Macau city

▲The Cathedral aka Sé Catedral da Natividade de Nossa Senhora and Igreja da Sé

▲Macau General Post Office right beside Senado Square

It's getting dark & starting to rain heavily (again), stumbled upon St. Lazarus Church & took shelter there. The original building on the site was built in 16th century to accommodate lepers, the present St. Lazarus Church was then rebuilt about 300 years later.
▲St. Lazarus Church

 And that's the best I could do to cover the Historic Centre in half day, under such bad weather...

▲wandering around Historic Macau

... but the journey didn't stop there. As night falls, walked further south to discover the glittering side of the city at its old casino district in southern peninsula. Here's where some of the famous casinos & hotels are located.

▲Casino Lisboa - built by Stanley Ho in 1970

▲Grand Lisboa - opened in 2007-08, tallest building in Macau

Right across the street opposite Lisboa is Wynn Macau, a luxury integrated resort owned by Wynn Resorts from Las Vegas. Don't miss the amazing ballet show of water, light & music at its Performance Lake while you're here, info about the showing times is on the Wynn's website.

The fountain show was the perfect way to wrap up a wet and tiring day. But before getting back to my homestay, took a stroll in the Casino Lisboa. I mean how can you not take a glimpse of those slot machines & gambling tables since you're in Macau, right?

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Day 7 - Leaving Macao... from Venice
Woke by the noise of the tourists flocking to Ruins of St. Paul's early morning at 7am (Yes, it's SOOO early! And I was THAT close to St. Paul's!)


Had breakfast at a porridge stall nearby, which I came across on a Taiwanese TV show. The stall serves a variety of tasty 'hot boiling porridge' (生滚粥,also the stall's name in Chinese), and it's mainly patronized by locals (I was the only foreign customer at the time). If you wish to taste what the locals have for breakfast & avoid tourist trap, I highly recommend this place (pic left - stall location on Google Maps)

A bowl of porridge didn't satisfy my desire for more local foodie (far from it!). Continued my tour in search of the 'must-eats' in Macau. After a 10-minute walk in high expectation, arriving at Margaret's Café e Nata - known as one of the best Portuguese egg tart shop in Macau - in disappointment. Margaret's Cafe was closed for a period of time, reasons unknown.

▲closure notice at Margaret's Cafe


Nevertheless, it's still a worthwhile effort to get here, as I got to try the famous Tai Lei Loi Kei's pork bun (大利来记猪扒包)next door (there are total of 4 branches, 2 in the Peninsula & 2 in Taipa). To me, the pork bun's taste didn't really live up the expectation, and it's a bit pricey too (about MOP 40 ~ 50 per serving, depend on flavour of choice)!

After some heavy breakfast(s), took a slow walk under the much-awaited clear sky to explore some of the 'grammable' laneways (like the one in pic below, nearby St. Paul's) & spots in Historic Centre.



After checked out from homestay, walked about 10min to the bus stop by following the direction in the map drawn by my host. Took the bus from there to get to Cotai (路氹城), which is a reclaimed land between Taipa & Coloane, connecting those two independant islands to become one island.

The Cotai Strip  is an area where the new generation of hotels, casinos & resorts are established, mostly owned by foreign investors. One of the well-known resorts here is Venetian Macao, where I was heading to.
▲15min bus ride getting to Cotai

The Venetian Macao is, hands down, not-to-be-missed integrated resort in Macau, here's why:
  • Venetian Macao is modelled based on its sister casino The Venetian Las Vegas 
  • At 10.5 million-square-foot, it's the seventh-largest building in the world by floor area
  • The largest casino in the world (Top 10 Largest Casinos in the World)
  • Besides luxurious hotel suites & gaming area, the resort also consist of 1.6 mil sq ft of retail area & 1.2 mil sq ft of convention space. So it's a place for everyone!
And my reasons to visit The Venetian? I get to visit Venice (yes, THAT Venice!) without having to fly to Europe! The resort replicates the lagoon island's cityscape, canals & even the sky at its indoor mall, one would feel that he/she is actually shopping in Venice. And yes, you may take a gondola ride too!



To make up my disappointment this morning, visited Lord Stow's Bakery & Cafe branch in Venetian (pic below). Founder of Lord Stow's, Andrew Stow created Portuguese egg tart & introduced it to Asia. The egg tarts from Lord Stow's was the best I ever had anywhere in my lifetime, no contest. It's often long queue at the shop & the tables are full, there's a separate stall outside by the canal which only sells egg tarts for takeaways with faster queue.

The Venetian is indeed a large resort with numerous entrances & lobbies, and its customer service is second to none. If you're visiting with your luggage, look out for the luggage storage service desk at the entrance where you come in. Pay a small fee (if you aren't the hotel guest) to have your belongings safely kept, they also help to transfer your luggage to the entrance where you will be leaving after the visit. Last but not least, they also provide shuttle bus services to/fro the airport. (Venetian shuttle bus pick up/drop off & schedules)

▲one of the hotel's lobby

So, there goes my short trip to Macau, a drenched (thanks to the weather) but otherwise fulfilling journey to this foodie & Heritage Sites-packed region. Whether you have ever been here before or not, or no matter how many times you've visited Macau, for sure you would find a valid travelling reason to come back here again. (But choose your time of travel wisely, if you know what I mean...)

 Airlines: AirAsia
 Departure: Macau Intl Airport
 Arrival: Kuala Lumpur Intl Airport
 Duration: 4 hours
 Airfare:  MOP654 (1pc 20kg check-in luggage+meal included)

My maiden solo travel to HK & Macau ended smoothly, and most importantly, it's a joyride! It gave me the much needed confidence to carry on this life-changing journey and explore more amazing places.

4 comments:

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  2. Great post, love to read about your travels.

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  3. Thanks for sharing such a wonderful article on Hong Kong Macau trip.

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